Marhaban! This past April I earned a scholarship to go to Morocco and study Arabic for 6 weeks. This will be a record of my thoughts and experiences during the time that I am away.

Monday, July 25, 2011

For the People I've met along this trip.


This will be my last post on this blog, because we only have a few more days in Morocco. It's been a while since I've posted, mostly because I didn't have internet for a week in the dorms and it was a lot of work to catch the blog up. Essuaria has been beautiful, and when I get back I'll tell you all about it, but this post is less for all the people back in America and more for all the people that I have met during this wonderful journey, so I wrote in Arabic: 


هذه أول مرة في المغرب ، و هو البلاد أحسن! أشعر بالمغرب بيتي ثاني، أحب المغرب و كل ناس فيه. سافرنا إلى المغرب أن ندرس اللغة العربية ولكن قومنا كثيرا! سكنا في رباط لخمسة أسابيع، لكن ذهبنا إلى شفشون و فاس أثناء السفر. أطن مدينة شفشون أحسن لأن هو جميل جدا و كان ليس ازدحام. رغم أننا قضينا فقط يوم واحد هناك، عرفت أن كنت أريد أن أسكن و أعمل دائما، و في الحقيقة أريد أن أعود مع قريبي، قبل الكلية. أعرف أصدقائي يشعرون بنفس أيضا. 
الآن، نهاية السفر، أحتاج أن احصل على الهدايا قليل لأسرتي و أحتاج أن أدرس لامتحان، لكن أيضا أحفظ كل وقت بسبب أريد أن أتذكر دائما السفر أحسن حياتي. قبل هذا سفر, كنت عند متقاطعة طرق في حياتي,لكن الان أنا مختلف, في المساء وفي النهار و في كل يوم هذا سفر يغيرني, و أشكر المغرب لهذا تغيير


For all the non-arabic speaking people, google translate gets pretty close. :) For all the Moroccans, sorry about my grammar! And for everyone, thank you so much for following me through my trip and being such a great influence to me! It truly has been the chance of a lifetime!

Thursday, July 14, 2011

The Lady or the Tiger?

Over the trip, our group has had many very intellectual discussions about every topic, from economics to relationships to a story called The Lady or the Tiger. This story was first written by Frank Stockton in 1882, but had been passed orally for generations before that. If you have a chance, read this short story and post what you think happened and why. I will be interested to see how your answers compare with the ones we came up with.


The Lady Or The Tiger?
In the very olden time there lived a semi-barbaric king, whose ideas, though somewhat polished and sharpened by the progressiveness of distant Latin neighbors, were still large, florid, and untrammeled, as became the half of him which was barbaric. He was a man of exuberant fancy, and, withal, of an authority so irresistible that, at his will, he turned his varied fancies into facts. He was greatly given to self-communing, and, when he and himself agreed upon anything, the thing was done. When every member of his domestic and political systems moved smoothly in its appointed course, his nature was bland and genial; but, whenever there was a little hitch, and some of his orbs got out of their orbits, he was blander and more genial still, for nothing pleased him so much as to make the crooked straight and crush down uneven places.
     Among the borrowed notions by which his barbarism had become semified was that of the public arena, in which, by exhibitions of manly and beastly valor, the minds of his subjects were refined and cultured.
     But even here the exuberant and barbaric fancy asserted itself. The arena of the king was built, not to give the people an opportunity of hearing the rhapsodies of dying gladiators, nor to enable them to view the inevitable conclusion of a conflict between religious opinions and hungry jaws, but for purposes far better adapted to widen and develop the mental energies of the people. This vast amphitheater, with its encircling galleries, its mysterious vaults, and its unseen passages, was an agent of poetic justice, in which crime was punished, or virtue rewarded, by the decrees of an impartial and incorruptible chance.
     When a subject was accused of a crime of sufficient importance to interest the king, public notice was given that on an appointed day the fate of the accused person would be decided in the king's arena, a structure which well deserved its name, for, although its form and plan were borrowed from afar, its purpose emanated solely from the brain of this man, who, every barleycorn a king, knew no tradition to which he owed more allegiance than pleased his fancy, and who ingrafted on every adopted form of human thought and action the rich growth of his barbaric idealism.
<  2  >
     When all the people had assembled in the galleries, and the king, surrounded by his court, sat high up on his throne of royal state on one side of the arena, he gave a signal, a door beneath him opened, and the accused subject stepped out into the amphitheater. Directly opposite him, on the other side of the enclosed space, were two doors, exactly alike and side by side. It was the duty and the privilege of the person on trial to walk directly to these doors and open one of them. He could open either door he pleased; he was subject to no guidance or influence but that of the aforementioned impartial and incorruptible chance. If he opened the one, there came out of it a hungry tiger, the fiercest and most cruel that could be procured, which immediately sprang upon him and tore him to pieces as a punishment for his guilt. The moment that the case of the criminal was thus decided, doleful iron bells were clanged, great wails went up from the hired mourners posted on the outer rim of the arena, and the vast audience, with bowed heads and downcast hearts, wended slowly their homeward way, mourning greatly that one so young and fair, or so old and respected, should have merited so dire a fate.
     But, if the accused person opened the other door, there came forth from it a lady, the most suitable to his years and station that his majesty could select among his fair subjects, and to this lady he was immediately married, as a reward of his innocence. It mattered not that he might already possess a wife and family, or that his affections might be engaged upon an object of his own selection; the king allowed no such subordinate arrangements to interfere with his great scheme of retribution and reward. The exercises, as in the other instance, took place immediately, and in the arena. Another door opened beneath the king, and a priest, followed by a band of choristers, and dancing maidens blowing joyous airs on golden horns and treading an epithalamic measure, advanced to where the pair stood, side by side, and the wedding was promptly and cheerily solemnized. Then the gay brass bells rang forth their merry peals, the people shouted glad hurrahs, and the innocent man, preceded by children strewing flowers on his path, led his bride to his home.
<  3  >
     This was the king's semi-barbaric method of administering justice. Its perfect fairness is obvious. The criminal could not know out of which door would come the lady; he opened either he pleased, without having the slightest idea whether, in the next instant, he was to be devoured or married. On some occasions the tiger came out of one door, and on some out of the other. The decisions of this tribunal were not only fair, they were positively determinate: the accused person was instantly punished if he found himself guilty, and, if innocent, he was rewarded on the spot, whether he liked it or not. There was no escape from the judgments of the king's arena.
     The institution was a very popular one. When the people gathered together on one of the great trial days, they never knew whether they were to witness a bloody slaughter or a hilarious wedding. This element of uncertainty lent an interest to the occasion which it could not otherwise have attained. Thus, the masses were entertained and pleased, and the thinking part of the community could bring no charge of unfairness against this plan, for did not the accused person have the whole matter in his own hands?
     This semi-barbaric king had a daughter as blooming as his most florid fancies, and with a soul as fervent and imperious as his own. As is usual in such cases, she was the apple of his eye, and was loved by him above all humanity. Among his courtiers was a young man of that fineness of blood and lowness of station common to the conventional heroes of romance who love royal maidens. This royal maiden was well satisfied with her lover, for he was handsome and brave to a degree unsurpassed in all this kingdom, and she loved him with an ardor that had enough of barbarism in it to make it exceedingly warm and strong. This love affair moved on happily for many months, until one day the king happened to discover its existence. He did not hesitate nor waver in regard to his duty in the premises. The youth was immediately cast into prison, and a day was appointed for his trial in the king's arena. This, of course, was an especially important occasion, and his majesty, as well as all the people, was greatly interested in the workings and development of this trial. Never before had such a case occurred; never before had a subject dared to love the daughter of the king. In after years such things became commonplace enough, but then they were in no slight degree novel and startling.
<  4  >
     The tiger-cages of the kingdom were searched for the most savage and relentless beasts, from which the fiercest monster might be selected for the arena; and the ranks of maiden youth and beauty throughout the land were carefully surveyed by competent judges in order that the young man might have a fitting bride in case fate did not determine for him a different destiny. Of course, everybody knew that the deed with which the accused was charged had been done. He had loved the princess, and neither he, she, nor any one else, thought of denying the fact; but the king would not think of allowing any fact of this kind to interfere with the workings of the tribunal, in which he took such great delight and satisfaction. No matter how the affair turned out, the youth would be disposed of, and the king would take an aesthetic pleasure in watching the course of events, which would determine whether or not the young man had done wrong in allowing himself to love the princess.
     The appointed day arrived. From far and near the people gathered, and thronged the great galleries of the arena, and crowds, unable to gain admittance, massed themselves against its outside walls. The king and his court were in their places, opposite the twin doors, those fateful portals, so terrible in their similarity.
     All was ready. The signal was given. A door beneath the royal party opened, and the lover of the princess walked into the arena. Tall, beautiful, fair, his appearance was greeted with a low hum of admiration and anxiety. Half the audience had not known so grand a youth had lived among them. No wonder the princess loved him! What a terrible thing for him to be there!
     As the youth advanced into the arena he turned, as the custom was, to bow to the king, but he did not think at all of that royal personage. His eyes were fixed upon the princess, who sat to the right of her father. Had it not been for the moiety of barbarism in her nature it is probable that lady would not have been there, but her intense and fervid soul would not allow her to be absent on an occasion in which she was so terribly interested. From the moment that the decree had gone forth that her lover should decide his fate in the king's arena, she had thought of nothing, night or day, but this great event and the various subjects connected with it. Possessed of more power, influence, and force of character than any one who had ever before been interested in such a case, she had done what no other person had done - she had possessed herself of the secret of the doors. She knew in which of the two rooms, that lay behind those doors, stood the cage of the tiger, with its open front, and in which waited the lady. Through these thick doors, heavily curtained with skins on the inside, it was impossible that any noise or suggestion should come from within to the person who should approach to raise the latch of one of them. But gold, and the power of a woman's will, had brought the secret to the princess.
<  5  >
     And not only did she know in which room stood the lady ready to emerge, all blushing and radiant, should her door be opened, but she knew who the lady was. It was one of the fairest and loveliest of the damsels of the court who had been selected as the reward of the accused youth, should he be proved innocent of the crime of aspiring to one so far above him; and the princess hated her. Often had she seen, or imagined that she had seen, this fair creature throwing glances of admiration upon the person of her lover, and sometimes she thought these glances were perceived, and even returned. Now and then she had seen them talking together; it was but for a moment or two, but much can be said in a brief space; it may have been on most unimportant topics, but how could she know that? The girl was lovely, but she had dared to raise her eyes to the loved one of the princess; and, with all the intensity of the savage blood transmitted to her through long lines of wholly barbaric ancestors, she hated the woman who blushed and trembled behind that silent door.
     When her lover turned and looked at her, and his eye met hers as she sat there, paler and whiter than any one in the vast ocean of anxious faces about her, he saw, by that power of quick perception which is given to those whose souls are one, that she knew behind which door crouched the tiger, and behind which stood the lady. He had expected her to know it. He understood her nature, and his soul was assured that she would never rest until she had made plain to herself this thing, hidden to all other lookers-on, even to the king. The only hope for the youth in which there was any element of certainty was based upon the success of the princess in discovering this mystery; and the moment he looked upon her, he saw she had succeeded, as in his soul he knew she would succeed.
     Then it was that his quick and anxious glance asked the question: "Which?" It was as plain to her as if he shouted it from where he stood. There was not an instant to be lost. The question was asked in a flash; it must be answered in another.
<  6  >
     Her right arm lay on the cushioned parapet before her. She raised her hand, and made a slight, quick movement toward the right. No one but her lover saw her. Every eye but his was fixed on the man in the arena.
     He turned, and with a firm and rapid step he walked across the empty space. Every heart stopped beating, every breath was held, every eye was fixed immovably upon that man. Without the slightest hesitation, he went to the door on the right, and opened it.
     Now, the point of the story is this: Did the tiger come out of that door, or did the lady ?
     The more we reflect upon this question, the harder it is to answer. It involves a study of the human heart which leads us through devious mazes of passion, out of which it is difficult to find our way. Think of it, fair reader, not as if the decision of the question depended upon yourself, but upon that hot-blooded, semi-barbaric princess, her soul at a white heat beneath the combined fires of despair and jealousy. She had lost him, but who should have him?
     How often, in her waking hours and in her dreams, had she started in wild horror, and covered her face with her hands as she thought of her lover opening the door on the other side of which waited the cruel fangs of the tiger!
     But how much oftener had she seen him at the other door! How in her grievous reveries had she gnashed her teeth, and torn her hair, when she saw his start of rapturous delight as he opened the door of the lady! How her soul had burned in agony when she had seen him rush to meet that woman, with her flushing cheek and sparkling eye of triumph; when she had seen him lead her forth, his whole frame kindled with the joy of recovered life; when she had heard the glad shouts from the multitude, and the wild ringing of the happy bells; when she had seen the priest, with his joyous followers, advance to the couple, and make them man and wife before her very eyes; and when she had seen them walk away together upon their path of flowers, followed by the tremendous shouts of the hilarious multitude, in which her one despairing shriek was lost and drowned!
<  7  >
     Would it not be better for him to die at once, and go to wait for her in the blessed regions of semi-barbaric futurity?
     And yet, that awful tiger, those shrieks, that blood!
     Her decision had been indicated in an instant, but it had been made after days and nights of anguished deliberation. She had known she would be asked, she had decided what she would answer, and, without the slightest hesitation, she had moved her hand to the right.
     The question of her decision is one not to be lightly considered, and it is not for me to presume to set myself up as the one person able to answer it. And so I leave it with all of you: Which came out of the opened door - the lady, or the tiger? 

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Fez!

I can offically say that I have been in the largest car-free urban enviroment in the world. Fez's massive medina has been one of the crazies areas that we have been in all of  Morocco! There hundreds of types of people, colors and smells everywhere, and anything that you could ever think of buying.


The week before going to Fez, we pretty much went to classes and spent a little time with the Marrakesh kids. We also saw a preformance of Gnawa music, which is traditional Moroccan music. This 2 hour long concert was a ton of fun, and we all ended up getting up and dancing to it too! Overall it was a lot of fun.

Sunday it came time for us to leave for Fez, and we took the long drive and arrived just before lunch time. Our hotel was in the middle of the Souk, which really proved to us that it was a legit Moroccan house. Traditional Moroccan houses have a large courtyard in the middle of 3-4 stories of rooms. The plaster and tile work inside of these houses are very intricate as well, and the whole thing looks so beautiful!

Soon we headed out into the Souk, which was a massive maze of street after street. The reason it was car free was not because people did not try, there was no possible way to fit something as large as a car down those streets! Donkeys were used instead, and they did not tend to stop if you did not get out of their way. 



For lunch we ate at a little restaurant in the Souk, where I ate the best kebabs of my life! Then we were able to head out and complete 6 hours of shopping. By this time, we bartered only in Arabic which helped to keep the price down. Usually as soon as anybody in the Souk saw that we were american or spoke only English the price tripled. However, Mobasshir, Michael and I weren't looking for the Arabic speakers price, we were looking for the Moroccan Price! We always knew we were getting a good deal if when we walked out of the store the storekeeper was enraged at giving us such a low price. Our best experience was when we bought a leather jacket. The storekeeper asked for 900 dirham for it, but we only gave him 600. As we walked around the Souk, Moroccans guessed that we paid 700-800 dirham for it, and when we informed them of the actual price we usually got a high five and a pat on the back.

Back at the hotel all of us just hung out together. We ended up sleeping on the roof because it was so much cooler. The hotel was so beautiful. 



After fez we traveled to Ifrane, which was beautiful but didn't really have much to do. It didn't look like Morocco, it looked a lot like Switzerland.  Then we came back to Rabat and spent time with our host families, which we have to leave Thursday! I am very upset to leave them, they have been so good to us! I am missing home, but I am glad that I am in Morocco! I hope that all of your summers are going well!

Thursday, July 7, 2011

The Blue City


Most people who know me wouldn't really describe me as a religious person. And I'm really not, going along with most of the definitions of the word. But when I first saw Chefchaouen nestled on the side of the mountain, I felt that no person could build a place this perfect.
A Mosque on top of a near-by mountain


We left for Chefchaouen Sunday, after spending all day at the American School in Rabat celebrating our nation's birthday. Being at a true American style party was a blessing...I swear they even imported the grass, because none of us had seen anything else like it in Rabat! After this, around 4:00 we all got on a bus and headed off through the mountains to Chefchaouen. During our ride, we had a lot of interesting experiences, such as someone trying to buy our girls for 10 dirham, someone trying to trade me pink flip flops for my shoes, and wonderful tea! 

Soon, we finally drove into view of the small blue city creeping up the side of the mountain in front of us. All of us were awed, I truly thing that if I was not on a bus I would have fallen to my knees. In Chefchaouen was the single time I did not miss home at all, and I could have lived there forever. 

The view from our hotel
In the city we arrived at our hotel, which, live everything else, seemed to be taken out of our best dreams! We all checked in, took a swim in this beautiful pool, then ended up staying awake until 4 the next morning receiving a Jinn lesson from Mobasshir. Jinn are basically Jeni, plus the root of all black magic. They are mentioned in the Quran as spirits of another world who are not supposed to interact with humans but sometimes do in special cases. After a few stories and some interesting encounters (there was a Jinn at the door!) some of them were too shaken up to go back to their room, so Mobasshir, Michael and I let everyone sleep in our room. This turned out to be not so great for Mobasshir, who didn't get a wink of sleep!

The next morning we all woke up and ate breakfast, with the traditional tea. Tea is very important in Moroccan culture, and is prepared a certain way. Everyone drinks this tea throughout the day, and it is one thing specifically that I love about Morocco!  After breakfast, all of us again piled on the bus and traveled farther into the mountains to go on a hike. This drive was very stressful because of three very important facts: 
  1. I don't like heights at all. 
  2. The road was very high and on the side of a mountain. 
  3. There was really only room for one car to pass at a time. 
I exaggerate a little bit, but basically this means that I was pleased when we were able to get off the bus! 



The hike was along a beautiful river that was freezing but had a slight resemblance to the Fountain of Youth. We were able to swim and jump into the water, there were pools of water that were very deep (20-30 feet) and very high ledges to jump from (20 or so feet). Mobasshir, CJ and I jumped from these into the water, and we had the time of our life! In total there were 3 high ledges to jump off of. All of us jumped off of the first one, which was around 20 feet high. The other two were borderline insane however, and neither CJ nor I jumped from them. Credit goes to Mobasshir, however,  who is such a man... after hurting himself in Ultimate Frisbee he jumped off all 3 ledges! The water was so cold and refreshing, Mobasshir and I even drank from it, and we both swear that it was the sweetest water we have ever tasted. Finally at the end of our hike we reached God's Bridge, a natural bridge spanning the canyon that was absolutely beautiful. 


The environment was at peace with itself, and everything was so relaxing. Swimming under this bridge will be one of the fondest memories of the trip, and I know that I will remember it for as long as I live. 
Our Rabat family!


I'm sorry for how late this post was, I wanted to be able to describe this place and give it justice but there truly is no way. I hope that you all get a chance to visit this magical place!

Thursday, June 30, 2011

In the Souk: Episode II

I miss home. Well, not really. Kinda. But we're having so much fun here that it hasn't really hit me yet! Monday was the start of FusHa, after learning Darija for a week it was like a slap in the face! I knew nothing that our Ustath was saying, it took me a while to get used to listening to Modern Standard instead of the dialect. FusHa is a lot easier to pronounce than Darija though because it actually has vowels. In Darija, Fahmt is a word....try saying that ten times fast!

After school on Monday we all decided to go to the Souk again! There was twelve of us, so we had to take three different taxis to the tram station. (The taxis only take 3 people each) John, Mobasshir, and I took the last taxi, arrived at the tram station, and didn't see any of our group. After a few frantic calls, we found out that the taxi drivers had decided to take the rest of the group to the medina! Ya allah! They were ok though, so John, Mobasshir, Tarek (another Ustath at our school), and I decided to wait for the tram to go downtown instead of taking another taxi. This turned into almost an hour decision, but eventually we met up with the rest of the goup.

Only 700 dirham...Mom you like birds right?

After this ordeal Mobasshir and I headed off to find deals on everything and anything that we saw. We actually bought some congratulations jewlery for Emily, our group leader, because she recently became engaged! We didn't find too many things for the prices we wanted, but we were fine with that because we learned more about what we wanted.

When we decided to head back home, we wanted to meet up with the group and take the bus back together. Mobasshir and I navigated through the labyrinth of streets that made up the Medina and eventually found our way to the modern part of the city. From here we called the other group to find out where they were, using a big green building next to us as a landmark.CJ picked up, but told us that he saw no green buildings anywhere near him! As we looked for another landmark for them to use to locate us, Patrick found us! It turns out that the whole group was only 20 feet away, CJ included! CJ told us that technically the building was green and white and that describing a building as green, even when all other buildings are white and brown and half as tall as our green building, is too vauge of a description. We have never been able to convince him otherwise, but now we know how to give CJ directions!

Check out these two videos that we shot in the Souk! Sorry I havn't posted in a while, we've had a lot of work today. Insha'allah I will make another post tonight or tomorrow, describing the calligraphy classes that we are taking as well as the Cookoff between Moroccans and Americans! Ma'salama!

The Souk! Look at all of the things being sold and the amount of people! The streets are always packed!